WATERING LAWNS
WATERING: Depends upon the variety, climate conditions, soil absorption rate and the heat intensity. Soils should be saturated by not water logged.
Grasses that grow along the top of the soil may need shorter watering times but several waterings. Grasses that form deed roots will need longer and less frequent waterings to get further into the ground where the roots need to develop, areas repairing from damage, or being overseeded will need more water for the new growth to establish.
More water is needed in the spring when new blades are forming and the fertilizer needs to be watered into the root system.
All living organisms require water in some form or the other. Water for the plant system works similar to what it does for ours. Water carries food photosynthesized from the leaves to the roots and returns to the leaves carrying nutrients gathered by the roots from water in the soil. As we can become dehydrated so can grass plants and the water absorbed is used as the cooling system and in the return of oxygen into the air.
The majority of all water used by the plant enters at the root level and the excess is given off in the form of vapor by the leaves. Germination and cell development needs water. Too much water in the ground causes the roots to become overloaded and the lack of oxygen makes them start to deteriorate and in some grasses cause iron deficiency. That is why most of the recommendations are for well draining soils. Lawn grasses love water but not to be water logged.
Grass plants are adapted to the different climates and weather conditions in nature. Seeds germinate, grow into seedlings, mature, set seed and in the winter or drought conditions go back into dormancy until the conditions are favorable again. We have decided that we like grass as our permanent ground cover for lawns, parks, athletic fields, anywhere and everywhere. Since that time we have coaxed and bred and produced the different varieties of the different species into almost year round service. This has been achieved through the ability to water more than any other practice. Extreme cold weather is the only factor in having a year round lawn almost anywhere on the continent.
Lawn disease and pest problems
Lawn disease and pest problems may be as easy to conquer before the grass ever goes into or onto the soil. Sounds crazy but with all the information available today in the world of grassing the first dollar may well be spent on a grassing book that describes each species of lawn grass and the problems inherent to each with pictures if you please.
Going to your local library for just the basic facts. And if you have one near you the local county agent will be the most helpful in giving you the correct information on what does the best in your given area.
Reading about the pluses and minuses of all grass varieties and what it takes to have a truly beautiful or just ordinary yard coverage is all up to you and your pocketbook and time that will be allotted.
HELPFUL For Identification!
Managing Northern Turfgrass Diseases:
Excellent Penn State University Extension web article on cool season diseases with lots of pictures for easy identification of your problem:
http://www.agronomy.psu.edu/Extension/Turf/TurfDis.html
Disease Control in Turf - Southern Lawns
Florida Extension site on various common turf diseases found in the South:
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/PG067 - Includes recommendations on fungicides.
Whether you live in warm season, cool season or tropical climates narrows the field from the beginning. Each grass species has certain diseases and pests that under the "wrong" conditions; can exterminate a lawn through a slow death or a rapid loss. Within each species there are varieties that have been "helped" along and bred to be more resistant to certain diseases and or pests. Grasses from Mother Nature were not meant to be mown but in choosing these species for lawns this is exactly how we use them. With the introduction to mowing creeping grasses produce thatch and thatch build up and this condition invites disease and some pests to move in. Bunching grasses don’t generally have this problem. But already you have a choice to make. Bunch or creeping?
Lawn Diseases - Climates
Climates have a lot to do with the same problems as well as the soil conditions (whether sandy or clay or loamy). In the deep south nematode infestations occur in dry, hot, sandy soils while the north has to contend with snow mold. So you have chosen the grass and sown, sodded, or sprigged and it is really coming along.
Lawn Diseases - Lawn Watcher
It is now time to delegate the LAWN WATCHER. Whether this is you or you have a service to mow the grass it should be a weekly observation of the condition of the lawn. And some nightly excursions as well for some insects do their greatest damage at night. Coloration differences, patchy growth, brown spots or other differences that appear in an otherwise healthy, maintained lawn mean something is amiss. Now is the time to get out that trusty book again and try to identify whether the damage is pest or disease related? Pests can generally be seen in some form and either in the grass or under it. Billbugs and grubs are two that will be found under the sod itself and you will have to cut a section of the sod and pull it back and check the soil. Five or more of anything is destructive and it’s time to treat with a killer of some sort. An easy way of collecting above ground bugs is to flood a small area with a soapy solution for about ten minutes and the bugs will generally float to the surface.
Lawn disease and pest problems may be as easy to conquer before the grass ever goes into or onto the soil. Sounds crazy but with all the information available today in the world of grassing the first dollar may well be spent on a grassing book that describes each species of lawn grass and the problems inherent to each with pictures if you please.
Reading about the pluses and minuses of all grass varieties and what it takes to have a truly beautiful or just ordinary yard coverage is all up to you and your pocketbook and time that will be allotted. Whether you live in warm season, cool season or tropical climates narrows the field from the beginning. Each grass species has certain diseases and pests that under the "wrong" conditions; can exterminate a lawn through a slow death or a rapid loss. Within each species there are varieties that have been "helped" along and bred to be more resistant to certain diseases and or pests.
Grasses from Mother Nature were not meant to be mown but in choosing these species for lawns this is exactly how we use them. With the introduction to mowing creeping grasses produce thatch and thatch build up and this condition invites disease and some pests to move in. Bunching grasses don’t generally have this problem. But already you have a choice to make. Bunch or creeping? Climates have a lot to do with the same problems as well as the soil conditions (whether sandy or clay or loamy). In the deep south nematode infestations occur in dry, hot, sandy soils while the north has to contend with snow mold. So you have chosen the grass and sown, sodded, or sprigged and it is really coming along. It is now time to delegate the
Lawn Pests - The Lawn WatcherLAWN WATCHER. Whether this is you or you have a service to mow the grass it should be a weekly observation of the condition of the lawn. And some nightly excursions as well for some insects do their greatest damage at night. Coloration differences, patchy growth, brown spots or other differences that appear in an otherwise healthy, maintained lawn mean something is amiss.
Now is the time to get out that trusty book again and try to identify whether the damage is pest or disease related? Pests can generally be seen in some form and either in the grass or under it. Billbugs and grubs are two that will be found under the sod itself and you will have to cut a section of the sod and pull it back and check the soil. Five or more of anything is destructive and it’s time to treat with a killer of some sort. An easy way of collecting above ground bugs is to flood a small area with a soapy solution for about ten minutes and the bugs will generally float to the surface.
LAWN MOWING INFO
Mowing height and frequency depends upon many factors. The species of grass, the variety developed, the usage, climate, watering system or not, fertilization, weeds and sometimes disease.
The time of the year will also affect the rate of mowing. Whether it is a new lawn or older established lawn. Grasses that are in a-one shape and getting the right amount of fertilizer and water will naturally grow faster and need more mowing
Mowing of heat stressed grass in the middle of the day only promotes more loss of moisture and nutrients unless watering systems are used shortly afterward. Warm season grasses con withstand the shorter mowing if done on a regular schedule and actually respond by better root development and thicker foliage.
Lawn-Mowing - Cool & Warm Season GrassesCool season grasses grow the fastest in the spring and early summer and early fall in preparation for winter dormancy.
The warmer season grasses start very early in the spring and continue through the winter in warmer climates and with regular maintenance can result in year round care.
Mowing heights range from ¼ inches to 4 inches depending upon the species. Cool season grasses that aren’t receiving enough water need to be a little longer to withstand the stress of the heat and evaporation of the sun and mowing to close can kill these grasses in this situation.